Three Weeks in China

Meenakshi, I do plan to post some photos soon.  It has been quite an adjustment returning home (and with a nasty cold) but Martha and I are working on the photos.

There were different types of “local” people we met.  First, there was an associate of Martha's and mine, a Chinese woman who lives in the US and helps with our project and traveled with us part of the time in China.  Then, there were the organizers and translators for the festival - some of whom were from Sichuan Province and some were local - from Qinghai province.  So, many of the local people we met in the festival city of Xining were drivers, translators, a doctor, TV producers, restaurant and hotel staff, etc.  On day, another westerner (often referred to as “foreign guests”) and I were taken to a Tu village (one of the well known minority groups in Qinghai province) for a performance of their ceremonial dances and to have lunch.  We had two translators with us, for that short trip - because it was something new for the translators to experience, also.  We also toured a mosque in Xining and several Tibetan temples.

I had a nice exchange with one of the local families, through a translator, asking about their family and local minority cultures- and allowing them to ask a question of me.  They wanted to know how Americans could be so critical of Chinese human rights issues when the US has so many human rights problems (including starting a war in Iraq) and racial prejudices, etc.  They seemed reassured by my answer, which agreed that we all face human rights challenges.

I also had nice exchanges with translators, who were mostly volunteers associated with the local tv stations, and with some government officials.  One local government person in particular, was very interested to interact about religion and even about Tibet.  He seemed to feel comfortable with me, and spoke rather good English.  There is a high value placed on speaking English, so people enjoyed being able to practice with a native speaker.  Being from a region whether there are a large number of Tibetans, this gentleman seemed to have a very different attitude towards Tibet than I had expected.  The Chinese seem to relate to the Dalai Lama as one of their historic spiritual leaders - not as an outsider.  So they want him to return and probably see “independence” for Tibet (rather than “autonomy”) as asking them to sever a finger from one of their hands.  Many Tibetan Lamas seek independence and complain about Chinese policies (and about individual acts of discrimination not supported by government policies) in ways that embarass the Chinese - perhaps comparable to charges of racism and sexism in the US).  In truth, as I understand it, the Dalai Lama does not support Independence, but more evenhanded automomy that will lead to economic development for the Tibetan people.  Some people believe that the Dalai Lama is being put in a very difficult situation by those who seek “independence.”  I told the story of how the Dalai Lama had rejected calls for a boycott on Chinese goods - because it could cause economic harm to chinese children whose families might lose their job, etc.

Taiwan has closer economic ties to China than one might think.  Lots of investment.  And, considering that Hong Kong is now part of China, I have the impression that China will use its economic might to bring Taiwan closer - rather than military might.

I also learned that there is “affirmative action” for minorities in China.  Because of the lesser eductational opportunities in rural minority areas, minority students are accepted into schools and colleges with lower test scores that Han people.  Over the past decade, a lot of economic development money has been directed towards western China and minority areas.

Part of our trip was 4 days of touring in the Qinghai province - mostly mountainous/plateau Tibetan and Muslim areas.  We had occassion to purchase things in local shops and to eat in local restaurants, of course.  Everywhere we went, we were a traveling attraction - as we looked very strange to the local people.  Often, we were asked to be in photos with touring or local Chinese people.  The people were friendly.  Even off-duty soldiers and police officers.

Meenakshi, I'm not a particularly courageous person regarding my personal safety or regarding causing stress or trouble for my hosts.  I would not have wanted to increase my chances of needing emergency medical care, but I was never given the feeling that I couldn't go anywhere I liked.  Whenever we asked one of our translators to go somewhere with us, they were happy to do so - even if it risked delaying the larger group.  At times, we traveled with a chinese-american who is a native speaker of mandarin.  She was reluctant to take me on the subway in Beijing - but more because she didn't like the crowded conditions.  Westerners are the center of attention wherever we go in China, and can draw pickpockets and thieves, so our guides have a strong sense of responsibility towards us - to ensure that we don't get ripped off - or have our experience in China turn negative in any way.

There was one person in our group who went out on his own at night several times and the only concern I saw was for his safety (because he was rather brash and not mindful of local customs or sensibilities).  We were taken to poor rural areas with large minority populations many of whom may not speak mandarin, so some translators were apprehensive more about whether they could even communicate with the local people.  At times we wandered around unaccompanied, looking at shops or sights, but there was no desire on my part to find out what the limits were.   I take it seriously when I am a guest who is not aware of local customs and sensibilities.  My goal was a positive visit - not to prove how arrogant westerners are.  In the process, I had excellent conversations with translators and other officials with our group - and developed win/win relationships that I hope to develop further in the future.

The only apprehension I had for my safety was related to the rather difficult mountain roads, the potential for rock slides, and hair pin turns - and feeling a bit overwhelmed with the high altitudes at times.  I was there to observe and interact - not to prove any of my prejudices to be correct.

China appeared to be kept clean, compared to US cities, most often with manual labor.  We saw many people in the cities and in the country who were charged with picking up, or sweeping up liter and dirt in the streets.  Sanitation and disease transmission are issues in the West, also.  Bathrooms were sometimes not comfortable places for me, but I took along hand sanitizer and used it frequently.  Smoking in restaurants was more common in China than in the US, but I also saw people making an effort to put out cigarettes before entering an elevator - or reminding someone else to do so.

Well, Jessica … sorry it has taken me so long to reply.  Martha and I have developed a wonderful relationship over the past few years.  She had hoped to visit China with me for a long time, but things just hadn't worked out.  When Martha was invited to be a judge for the World Mountain Documentary Festival of Qinghai, China, we initially thought that she would be going alone - because of the expensive air fare.  However, I had enough frequent flyer miles, and the festival was very gracious in inviting me along, so it worked out for Martha and me to have quite an adventure!

We went to Beijing for two days to meet with broadcast organizations, and then flew to Xining, the site of the festival in Qinghai Province.  Our hosts were wonderful!  The festival organizer and the Vice-Governor of the province were most warm and gracious.  The Vice-Governor, who has created many opportunities for economic growth and cultural enrichment, is also a poet and a member of one of China's minority groups - a remarkable gentleman. 

After four days of judging films, the festival had a celebration for the whole group at a Tibetan Restaurant.  There were also judges from Russia, Brazil and India.  It was the day of the Moon Festival (an important day of harvest celebration on the full moon) and there was traditional Tibetan singing and dancing. 

Martha and I had talked about eventually getting engaged, but that was not on an agenda.  But on such an auspicious occasion, in Qinghai China, at a Tibetan Restaurant full of very happy, gracious people (who happened to be Chinese), it just seemed absolutely natural.  So, I proposed to Martha and she accepted!  It was a wonderful night.  After our engagement was announced, we were given some gifts and were even asked to go on the stage and sing a song.  All I could think of was “You are my sunshine.”  So, that was our song.  Being full of media professionals, there were lots of photos taken, and we hope to eventually receive some. 

But even this process of getting engaged among new friends in China was a powerful reminder of how similar we all are.  The warmth and courtesy of our hosts and colleagues was just as familiar and recognizable as that of my own family.  From now on, I will always carry with me these experiences.  I do not know how nations can become enemies when the peoples have so much in common that they are all destined to be friends.  And so it is even more imperative to me that national policies never become divorced from our basic shared humanity.  One of Martha's favorite quotes comes from President Eisenhower who said that when people want peace badly enough, they will get their governments to step aside and let them have peace.

By the way, even in Xining, on the high Tibetan plateau (7,200 feet), celebrations are celebrations - and people are people.  Martha and I had a wonderful time!  Our unexpected engagement was received with delight and joy by our hosts and colleagues - some of whom had known Martha for 9 years (and her 4 previous trips to China).  And the same delight and joy was shared by our families and friends upon our return to the US.  We hadn't told anyone back home about our engagement while we were still in China - because the engagement was a surprise to both of us, also.  And it feels very right.